2024 Paris Fashion Week Review Round-Up
Paris Fashion Week round-up, reviewing and discussing shows showing AW'24 collections.
Greetings beautiful people, welcome to the assembly.
It is fashion week, and this one has proven to be one for the books, with some of the most polarizing and extravagant shows I feel have happened in YEARS. I will be discussing choice shows that impacted me and namely the internet, along with visuals. As always feel free to comment your opinions and favorite fashion shows you have seen from Paris fashion week.
*Note: This post is long and contains many pictures, so it is not completely viewable by email. I recommend downloading the Substack App or visiting this post on your mobile browser or desktop so you can engage fully with images as well as reviews for each show. Thank you again for subscribing, much love always!
Mens and Womenswear / Ready-To-Wear Collections
Louis Vuitton Menswear FW 2024
Pharrell Williams’s Louis Vuitton has been pretty polarizing, and this collection is no different. As a Southern belle myself I appreciate the Western and cowboy-inspired motifs and silhouettes, but this collection was so safe and on the nose.
The turquoise accents and buttons were one of the best aspects of this collection. The turquoise monogram keepall is a key moment from this show for me, I’m obsessed. The embossed croc suit set was also one of my favorite moments, it bit, and death spun me. The footwear from this collection is also a treat. I loved the cow patterned cowboy boots, they were very stunning. Louis Vuitton also collaborated with Timberland to create footwear for this collection, which I feel will be well-favored on the streets of New York. I personally did not care for the collaboration, but I feel as though they will sell, especially the monogram canvas boot. I can already see the scammers going crazy to flex in these. They may be manufactured by Louis Vuitton, but that does not negate the fact that they look like Canal Street dupes in my opinion. The furs and the use of denim in this collection was pleasing, two textiles I usually do not care for much but they work well here. I personally would like to see more edge and innovation come from Williams’s Louis Vuitton. I hope to see that and maybe some more cohesion in the casting for models (hire a model in the place of the rappers… please.) All in all, it’s a cute collection and well executed. I know how much Southern Americans love Louis Vuitton, so the trust fund babies, old blood money and industry families will have a hoot and a holler with this collection.
BOTTER ‘DARK WATERS’ Menswear FW24
Botter has become one of my favorite modern brands, because I love the way they have created a signature for themselves in such a short time. The Botter signature blue is a color I could live in. Nautical and oceanic themes run throughout their work, and it never gets tired to me. I am a child of the sea, so of course I appreciate the work of Botter and Herrebrugh and how much the Caribbean Sea means to them, raising awareness through their collections. This collection accomplished the mission of discussing sustainability efforts while also utilizing patchwork creations to make eye-catching garments. Playful practicality is how I would describe this collection. Botter’s view of workwear has impressed me because it balances both work and play well, I may not wear these to work my corporate job, but I’d wear this to work and network at fashion week events or to have pieces that draw attention to the body (my clevicals are one of my best features so the cutout sweater is a need for me). Those that enjoy Demna’s Balenciaga RTW collections or Vetements may like this collection for its exaggerated, oversized silhouettes and careful but impactful details and edits to clothing that elevate the piece. I need that Shell logo ‘Hell’ hoodie and matching sweatpants, my favorite part of this collection. Botter, my mail is open if you would like to gift, thank you!
Rick Owens ‘Potterville’ Menswear FW24
I have to admit… I love Rick Owens, A LOT. I do not consider myself one of the ‘opium’ aesthetic people and how Owens has gotten lumped into this when he originated the style, but that is his lane. These inflated boots are so ridiculously good, as good as the color palette used for this collection. Owens owns the elevated puffer in my opinion and this collection continued to establish that. The sweaters and the knit jumpsuits, the styling of this collection is so unique to Owens. I enjoyed this collection immensely. I can see myself in the look with pink boots and the monochromic exaggerated knit set, with matching coat and pant. Side note, that I will continuously make: I, as well as my bank account, are open to being funded to feed my Rick Owens addiction, thank you again!
Alaïa Summer/Fall’24 RTW
Oh… this was a great collection and Alaïa never ceases to amaze me. I have always been an Azzedine Alaïa stan and the team is really living up to the namesake. This show is excellence in construction, design and drenched in luxury and simplicity. It is so quiet, but so loud at the same time. Quiet luxury lies in the construction and the quality of materials used, tight silhouettes and tailoring that hugs and fits the body well. The silhouettes for some of these pieces are incredible, and in NY fashion the only word I can use to describe this collection is ‘k*nt’, *Azealia Banks voice* like how could you see this and not say k*nt? To use more appropriate language, I will describe this collection as chic, the embodiment of chic. The draping… ugh I can continue to gush over this collection, but I recommend you all absorb this collection for yourself. These string dresses were made from a single string of yarn… are you kidding me?! I absolutely love this collection. The cheetah print so beloved to Alaïa, yes yes yes! We appreciate staying true to house motifs. I think these spiral dresses and honestly most pieces from this entire collection are going to be very common come the spring and summer, and I predict many celebrities will be wearing them - namely the K ones who I will not name.
Balmain Menswear FW24
This collection contains some of Balmain’s strongest pieces presented from them in a while. A metal durag? Yeah… Balmain came out swinging sporadically, because as a whole this collection was all over the place. I respect Olivier, his work and the meaning of this collection, for him and the fashion house. It’s just… this collection was very… inspired to say the least. While looking through this collection, I felt as though I was looking through a mixture of different fashion house collections, there were points where I forgot I was viewing a Balmain show. I saw some older Schiaparelli influences, with the lip motifs that Saint Laurent was doing a while ago, some Gaultier influences, the dots and colors of Commes des Garcon and some points even older Acne Studios SS collections… I was just confused. Some of the stylings were reminiscent of clowns at some points, then afro-futurism at others, then masculine takes on old Hollywood glamour - I’m not sure what was going on, but this collection was like seeing my ADHD personified. I wish there was more cohesion and honoring of Balmain house codes to bring a lot of loose elements together. I accept this show for what it was though and Olivier you’re amazing and always will be. I enjoyed the diversity in the casting for this show as well, I do not see many tanner skin models on high fashion runways as much and liked there are many shades of what would be considered ‘black’ skin in this show. I do NEED that bedazzled eye sweater plus the matching jacket as quickly as possible.
Lemaire
Lemaire presented a study in earth tones and how to create a grounded, well-rounded look, for the grounded and well-rounded individual. A good ready-to-wear collection that has practicality, variety and pieces that you can mix and match, where you get good usage out of the pieces you purchase. Understated is a word that suits this collection but at the same time diminishes the sheer sophistication and elegance displayed in this collection. I left this collection looking at my wardrobe subjectively and it told me that I need to elevate. The person who wears Lemaire is definitely someone I would like to keep close because I know they just get it, and they are succeeding in life and whatever field they are in. The flats, the LEMAIRE FLATS! Immaculate. Flats are starting to become a trend shoe (which… I guess but please be careful with walking around in flats, all blessings to your feet) and I hope to see these Lemaire flats on the streets of NY as the season continues. Very good!
KidSuper ‘String Theory’ FW24
Giving a nod to KidSuper and their collection because it thoroughly gagged me. Brooklyn, stand TF UP! Kid Super is merging streetwear and couture and doing it somewhat successfully. The theatrics displayed in this collection really showed that Kid Super is not just a monolith or simple streetwear, but capable of pulling off a cohesive and impressive collection. Prints utilizing the human form are going to be in this FW season I am guessing, seeing a commonality there in some of these collections. The fans of Abloh’s Louis Vuitton would love this collection. I’m excited to see what they do next.
Haute Couture
Schiaparelli ‘Schiaparalien’ SS24
First, let’s address the glamorousness in the room, Law Roach and Zendaya in what I think will be the best look styled and worn in all of fashion week. This is immaculate, kisses to Roach for that styling. Onto the collection, of course it was spectacular. The doll + the dress constructed of Swarovski crystals, microchips and parts from analog devices are insane. These looks are so regal and futuristic, I’m seeing some McQueen likeness throughout the collection with the neckline in the first picture, and the silhouettes featured hold a light to McQueen couture (I don’t want to compare, but I just really miss you Alexander). Daniel Roseberry continues to kill it, every! single! collection! All hits, no skips.
Robert Wun
Robert Wun proves again that he is a fashion beast and this collection is drenched in talent and BLOOD! The ‘raincoat’/suit (modeled by Wisdom Kaye… and hey Wisdom. *bats eyes* you will always have a place on L’Assemblage, in my heart and hopefully my DM) is so spot on and gave the best rain illusion of fashion week. I can only hope to own one day. I would consider selling my soul to own it, as well as the crystallized bloodstained gown + matching veil. If I did, I would probably see characters wearing this Robert Wun collection in fashion hell. This massaged and gave great care to the gothic and esoteric aspect of myself, which is just all of me to be honest. A bloody (all pun intended) good time.
Maison Margiela Artisanal SS2024
If couture week was a competition, Margiela is taking the win. I will always be a Margiela fan and root for Margiela. This show was IMMACULATE, everything about it, all the details were accounted for. The makeup, the set design, the casting, the CLOTHING (AND THE SHEER TALENT AND EXPERTISE IN CONSTRUCTION, what do you mean you made mesh merkins for the models that look NATURAL? Can you imagine owning a Margiela couture merkin?! Please), all of it was simply breathtaking. Whatever sorcery this team is using to construct these garments and pull off these shows, I would like to learn and be subject to it. I think this show will shift fashion back into its theatrical roots, allowing drama, personality and fun to be back on the runways and in collections again. Say what you want about John Galliano (because there is a lot you can say honestly) but he is a fashion force that no one else has been able to touch. This show establishes that fashion can be used for the purpose of artistry. The embodiment of the ‘broken doll’ idea is executed with such precision, huge shoutout to the models because this was theater. Plus, Gwendoline Christie as a model in this show… that was a cherry on top. I am a Game of Thrones fiend and honestly a part of the Christie hive, so this just warmed my heart. I LOVED everything about this! Here is a hyperlink to the show, if you do not watch any other ones, watch this show. This show awakened the childlike joy that fashion once brought me so thank you to the Margiela team, because critics and audiences agree and are singing similar praises. 10/10!
Chanel SS24
To my surprise, I am mentioning Chanel in this newsletter. I always enjoy the sets and extravagant sets that Chanel construct. I have to admit though, there has not been a Chanel collection I have been excited about since… I think 2015. Honestly, the collection was okay - but it is not the reason I am mentioning Chanel. Kendrick Lamar and Dave Free of ‘pgLang’ have collaborated with Chanel to produce a short film entitled ‘The Button’, scored by Lamar and directed by Free, which you can view above. I thoroughly enjoyed watching this film and the concept portrayed. It is beautifully shot and the unreleased song from Lamar is unlike what we have heard from him and added dimension to the film. This was a journey back and forth into time, using locomotives as a motif for that. I would like to see pgLang do more fashion work, possibly giving up and coming (namely black) fashion creatives space to produce visuals for their collections.
That’s the round up! What were some of your favorite Paris Fashion Week shows? Any shows not mentioned that you would like to comment on? Leave a comment and raise a point at the assembly. Assembly dismissed! Until next time.
Robert and margelia are taking it for me but honestly I think I love robert's just slightly more because the headpieces were amazing!!! Also you were right I LOVED the Alaia pieces. "got a pink gown cutsom by Aalia" - Mariah Carey