2024 Met Gala Red Carpet Round-Up
Discussing choice looks and the dress code from this year's Met Gala red carpet
Hello beautiful people and welcome to the assembly!
It’s the first Monday in May, and you know what that means: the Met Gala has arrived (and avoid the area around 5th Ave like the plague).
If you are not aware, The Met Gala is a charity event held for the Costume Institute - post them fusing with the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It was started in 1948 and has grown into a highly publicized global sensation, coined as ‘fashion’s biggest night’.
This year’s Met Gala celebrates the Costume Institute’s new exhibition, “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion,” with the official dress code being “the Garden of Time.” The exhibit is said to “explore cyclical themes of rebirth and renewal, breathing new life into these storied objects through creative and immersive activations designed to convey the smells, sounds, textures, and motions of garments that can no longer directly interact with the body”, according to the press release issued by the Met. I plan on visiting the exhibit at the Met once it is open and publishing the experience on L’Assemblage NYC so stay tuned for that, and subscribe if you have not yet.
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Let’s start by giving some context about the story that inspired this year’s dress code. The dress code is inspired by 'The Garden of Time' a science fiction short story published by JG Ballard1, detailing the journey of aristocrats Count Axel and his wife the countess who have a beautiful magical garden in their villa. One day while tending to his garden with his wife, Axel notices that an enormous army of ‘humanity’, which I will liken to enraged workers, drawing closer and closer to their villa. In an effort to stay safe, Count Axel cuts time flowers from his garden which crystalizes into light, rewinding time backward pulling the army back to the horizon it once started. The fleeting garden only produced so many time flowers, which could not hold off the mob that eventually raided the villa. There are two statues encased by thorns that look over the mob and ravaged villa, dressed in the same grab of the count and countess, one holding a delicate rose with falling petals. It is assumed that the count and countess turned into these stone statues once the garden dies.
There has been confusion with the dress code and the exhibit that has been addressed by Anna Wintour prior to the Gala, with her issuing an apology - saying this exhibit broke her ‘cardinal rule’ in an interview on Today. The exhibit and the dress code do not seem connected but considering that the exhibit discusses the fragility of garments and the care it takes to preserve these garments, it meshes well with the garden of time and the connection between how textiles (which are usually made of natural fibers) deteriorate over time. The dress code is pretty simple to follow, throw on some florals or something reminiscent of gardens, maybe incorporate time, and get creative with it.
We are going to discuss looks old western shootout style - discussing the Good, the Bad and the Ugly. My criteria for a good Met Gala look: it is fashionable, styled well (hair, accessories, etc.), tells a cohesive story with vision, and fuses in the theme (bonus points for including the exhibit). *Notice: This is based on my personal taste and opinion, please do not take it personally. I am solely speaking on the looks and not the people wearing them. I respect the designs of all mentioned. I welcome opposition, feel free to leave it in the comments.
**All photos courtesy of Getty Images and Vogue Online.
The Good
Loewe: Taylor Russell and Ariana Grande in custom Loewe
If you read my review of ‘The Effect’ then you are privy to my love for Taylor Russell, and this Met Gala look just extends that love further. This look is stellar, and one of the best of the night. The wooden bodice and how it is casted perfectly to Russell’s body, the draping of the skirt and how it accentuates the bodice in a way that completes the look, showcasing the bodice like it’s art. The same with Ariana’s look, which the body is made of mother-of-pearl. I do prefer Russell’s look compared to Ariana’s; I feel it’s more interesting, especially with the flower details - I was in love from first look.
Barry Keoghan in Burberry
Barry Keoghan in this Burberry look is so good, he embodies the Count from the story well here. It is on theme, with the 19th century setting of the story, I love this velvet suit (WITHOUT a double breast, and a VEST underneath, THANK YOU) and how well tailored this is on Keoghan. The blouse underneath with the tied neck is also such a nice divulge from the usual collared shirt we get from menswear. The top hat is even acceptable here. I really loved this look.
Zendaya in vintage Givenchy and Artisanal Maison Margiela by John Galliano
Oh… Zendaya once again continues to prove she embodies fashion and STUDIES. The drama of it all made this look come to life. She knows how to work with a garment and wear it to tell a story. The Alexander McQueen headpiece paired with the Archive Givenchy (by John Galliano by the way), along with this Margiela second look… chef’s kiss. Law Roach and Zendaya are a match made in heaven because he is able to pull of fashion stunts for a muse who is more than willing. This fits the theme so beautifully, especially with Margiela’s recent collection directly touching on themes of decay, there are many elements fitting the theme perfectly. One of my favorite details is the hummingbird on her neck. All around Zendaya is one of the best dressed tonight, which goes without saying happens most times when she steps onto the red carpet.
Bad Bunny in Maison Margiela
Met Gala co-chair Bad Bunny wears Margiela and I really loved this look. It is a tad simple, with the flowers but I love this Margiela suit on him, along with the tabi goat hooved shoes. It’s a beautiful look and I love the collection so of course I like this look a lot.
Balmain: Tyla and Olivier Rousteing in custom Balmain
I did not except to say that Tyla had the best Met Gala look of the night, but she did. Tyla owned the Met Gala this year and this look I would say IS the best of the night. This is her first Met Gala, and she has established her ability to be invited back next year. A dress made with sand, amazing. The hourglass as an accessory showing the sands of time fits the theme perfectly. I love how this dress is sculpted to her body, along with the sand details on the arms… I am kind of blown away. She looks amazing, although I know she was not able to walk in this dress (she was actually carried up the stairs all of the carpet I believe, then the dress was cut into a mini dress by Olivier Rousting… really an iconic moment for Tyla.) As the night went on, the dress deteriorated more with wear, blending beautifully with the theme of garment fragility of the museum’s exhibit. The dress became a performance whether that was intention or not. I also love this casting of Rousteing’s face that was worn, it is so campy but beautiful. I do wish that there were matching sand pants to go along with it, even if they were flared - I wanted more sand! Beggars can’t be choosers though. All in all, I enjoyed this moment from Balmain and they really owned the Met this year.
Thom Browne: Gigi Hadid, Alton Mason, Ben Simmons
Thom Browne was featured by many patrons of the Met Gala, and for the most part I enjoyed the looks displayed by the Browne team. Gigi Hadid wore a gown with a skirt that looks like multiple deconstructed blazers with flowers on them. It’s an interesting composition, something that caught my eye. The flowers allow it to be on theme too, so there is that. Alton Mason’s look was really great as well, the styling is what made it work so well. The Browne house codes are so prevalent, you know a Thom Browne look when it appears. The best of all three though is surprisingly Ben Simmons. I really enjoyed this clock briefcase (which is so on the nose, but in theme) and this coat, blazer that fuse multiple textiles and flower detail are really beautiful. My only note would be the bowtie, but even that does not bother me much. Good looks all around.
Doja Cat in Vetements
Say what you want about Doja Cat and about this look, but I have to say I really loved it. I like simplicity and there is a story alongside this look. I feel as though her and Guram/Vetements were able to tell a story with this wet t-shirt dress. When I saw her walking the carpet, I understood what she was going for. Cotton being a major textile used in most clothing, and the white t-shirt being a staple it’s an interesting take on the theme, but I appreciate the out of the box thinking. Doja Cat said she wanted to stand out and that she did. I sort of wish she went with a look that mimicked designs made by Di Pesta , but the devotion to the bit is also appreciated. Hoping that Doja Cat is pneumonia free after being in a wet t-shirt all night.
Chloë Sevigny in Dilara Fındıkoğlu and Ana Khouri
God Bless Chloë Sevigny… this look is amazing. You cannot tell me she did not step out of the exhibit with a dress that looks like it was displayed. She embodied sleeping beauties and truly reawakened fashion. Fındıkoğlu constructed this dress beautifully, and the Victorian inspiration is such a beautiful way to incorporate the theme of time - like this dress was transported from the past. Sevigny is a true fashion girl and this further proves that.
Charli XCX in Marni
This deconstructed t-shirt gown is really beautiful and Marni executed this idea well. The use of other textiles to make a dress like this not only is economic and ecological but fits the theme very well. The distressing on the gown makes it haunting and ghastly, like moths have been eating this gown - which again is perfect for the garden of time theme. It’s the right amount of punk and chic, which is perfect for Charli’s brand. One of my favorite looks for the night.
Lana Del Rey in Alexander McQueen
This by far is one of my favorite looks of the night, I think second to Tyla. Lana encapsulates this dress code so well. The archive reference from McQueen’s FW2006 “Widows of Culloden” collection made this look all the better. This look is mystical, the antler like twigs that adorn Del Rey’s head are so beautiful. There is drama, a story, beautiful styling, execution, everything here works so well. At the end of ‘The Garden of Time’, the statue holds a delicate rose with rose petals falling and that addition was a bow that tied this look into perfection. Lana, you will always be my mother.
Greta Lee in Loewe
Loewe, also being a partner with the Met for this year’s exhibit, had all patrons wearing their designs decked out gorgeously (even Anna Wintour). Greta Lee looks angelic in this lace and floral moment. I love this silhouette, structurally this dress is very interesting to look at. This micro bang is working overtime as well and it is working hard. She looks stunning and I really liked this look.
Quannah Chasinghorse in H&M
Quannah Chasinghorse is always representing for the indigenous girls at the Met and I love how she is able to fuse her personal style as well as her heritage into her looks, in a way that is fashionable and on theme. She looks like a Navajo princess here. The silhouette of this dress is stunning, the sleeves and the color are so plush and soft. I love the detailing with the flowers along the waistband and on her rings. I just wish that the bottom of this dress was better buffed. The cutline looks so blunt, almost like the dress was not finished. All in all, this warmed my heart and is an excellent example of fusing yourself into your look.
Nicki Minaj in Marni
What a fun look from Nicki Minaj, very Harajuku Barbie - I’m hot, I think it’s time to put the rice in! (excuse me barbing out, but she’s a five-star chick). This look is so cute, the hand painted Marni look works well alongside the flowers, it’s an art piece. It is so structured, and the silhouette works well for Minaj’s body.
Precious Lee in Bad Binch TongTong
This dark pixie look from Bad Binch TongTong makes me so happy and Precious Lee looks extravagant in this. A good mix of whimsical and glamorous. I was so glad to see Bad Binch TongTong on the red carpet, because many of their designs would work amazing for this theme, as you can see. Does it match the theme/dress code much… ehh but still, I lived.
*Honorable Mention: SZA in Bad Binch TongTong
SZA is notoriously late to the Met Gala red carpet, usually arriving after it’s already closed. If that is also the case this year, we were ROBBED of this look, and I am very upset about that. When I first saw this look from Bad Binch TongTong I thought immediately, this would be a show shopping look. If SZA were to have walked the red carpet in this, it would have been one of my favorite looks of the night. Very unfortunate, but still had to mention it here.
Anok Yai in Swarovski
Anok Yai… that’s the review. The material speaks for itself. One of the most gorgeous people to have ever graced my eyes. This look is immaculate. It took 8 people to make, is covered in 90,000 Swarovski crystals and is custom made to Yai’s proportions. This deserves to be in a museum and NEVER worn by anyone else ever (side eye to Miss K…). I was awestruck with this and everything about this is absolutely stunning. The crystal flowers and the accessories, very time flower coded. That’s what I imagine the time flowers in ‘The Garden of Time’ turn into once cut. Very reminiscent of a crystalline sea fairy, it’s so mystical - I’m just in love! Definitely one of my favorite looks of the night and one of the best custom looks I have been in a while. Anok Yai owns the Met every time she comes and NEEDS to be on the chair board moving forward.
Iris Law in Versace
Shoutout to Iris Law in this archive Versace look from FW02. A butterfly in the Garden of Time, she looks beautiful, and this is styled very well.
Wisdom Kaye in Robert Wun
I discussed my love for Wisdom Kaye in my Paris Fashion week letter (where I also speak on my love for Robert Wun’s collection). This look is just so good. The burn holes and the aged look of this fits the theme well. The monochromatic red is pleasing and the construction of this look is perfect. I love creative menswear and at the Met Gala and I hope to see more from Kaye on this front.
Harris Reed: Harris Reed and Demi Moore
Claps and applause for Harris Reed, wearing his own designs as well as dressing Demi Moore. Reed is shining this Met Gala, reminding me of Byzantine paintings, literally deified in this looks like a God. I already know Reed and I will have our moment where I get to be dressed in this extravagant garb, living my goddess fantasy and I’m very excited for that moment. This jumpsuit is gorgeous, the drama, the construction, the print, the headpiece it is all immaculate. Demi Moore also looks gorgeous in this gown designed by Reed. The silhouette of this is CRAZY with the signature arrows from Reed, she’s a bird of paradise. Loved seeing this on the red carpet.
The Bad
Cardi B in Windosen by Sensen Li
Sigh… sometimes bigger does not mean better. The boddy of this gown is not flattering. I do not know how this fits the team of Sleeping Beauties or Garden of Time either. Maybe if the theme was witch doctor, then it would have worked. It’s a huge tulle dress for what reason? Sure, it’s dramatic, but the head wrap also just does not make much sense to me. It was kind of underwhelming considering the sheer size of this, the gown drowns her. Maybe she is not the best person to really channel the look of this dress. It’s been a lot of talk about how Cardi forgot the name of the designer saying that Windosen was “this amazing designer, they are Asian and everything…”. This dress took two months to create, and you do not mention the name of the design on the red carpet saying you did not know how to correctly pronounce it? That’s unacceptable and can be considered very disrespectful. A Met Gala look with the obvious intention to steal the night that fell completely flat… tragic.
Usher in Alexander McQueen
It’s giving creeper… something goes bump in the night. I love you Usher, but this was not it. It is solely the hat that really just ruins this look. Please, take it off and the look would amplify tenfold! Close, but no cigar.
Hannah Bagshawe and Eddie Redmayne in Steve O Smith
These looks are inspired by drawings from artist Cy Twombly. The execution is just poor to me. There are ways to do abstraction that translates better than what looks like black wiggles on tulle. Redmayne’s wearing what I presume is a dress? Or something that is supposed to give androgyny, but it does not translate well at all. The shorts underneath is just off-putting. The entire duo just looks… off.
Camilla Cabello in Ludovic de Saint Sernin
This is boring. The rose frozen in the block is the only thing I really liked about this dress. This would be cute for an award show, but for the Met Gala let’s get creative. The distressing at the bottom could go with the theme of the exhibit I guess, but it seems lazy.
Lizzo in Weinsanto
*Sigh…* Lizzo usually has killer style and has been really dressing to the nines in the past few months, but what is this?! I really hate to say this is one of my least favorite looks of the night. Is she supposed to be a mesh tree trunk? Or a mushroom? What’s going on with the headpiece? The color is also kind of dull, very close to her skin tone, but the material does not allow it to coexist with her body at all. This dress is so ill fitting, especially around stomach where it wrinkles at the bottom and bunches in a strange way. I am so disappointed in this as a red-carpet look… hopefully next year is better.
Balenciaga: Rachel Sennott and Michelle Yeoh
Oooff… Balenciaga did not do either of these wonderful women justice. Rachel Sennott is wearing one of my least favorite looks of the night. I understand the vision, but it is not working. The dress itself is an eyesore. The styling around this dress just makes it work less. I’d expect this is what she would look like trying the dress on, not walking the carpet. Michelle Yeoh is wearing a ball of tinfoil. I immediately thought of balloon boy and that is what this dress is reminding me of. (I’m really aging myself, but do you remember that boy that was said to be caught in a weather balloon, but that was all a lie? The same feeling I got looking at this look.) There was a beautiful dress by Balenciaga made from a similar material during their SS2020 collection and I would have loved to see that on Yeoh instead of this. Two thumbs down for Balenciaga here.
Dua Lipa in Marc Jacobs and Tiffany & Co.
Another instance of a lot going on with nothing going on at the same time. It’s kind of disappointing that the Marc Jacobs team did not conceptualize something that makes sense for the theme but also gives that sultry feel that Dua Lipa likes to go for. The vision gets so lost with the multiple textures and patterns used, there are flowers and polka dots, then lace, knit and a feather boa - let’s get on one accord. Very disappointing look.
FKA Twigs in Stella McCartney
I’m not sure what’s happening here but there is so many conflicting parts of this outfit. This, just… did not work. I’m not sure the vision or what is going on? Let’s go back to the drawing board. If she was performing, then this look would kill on the stage. For the Met Gala red carpet, this is a HARD no.
Paloma Elsesser in H&M
The bodice isn’t much of the problem here, it’s the skirt. I really cannot stand this skirt… I wish it was better constructed or connected to the bodice somehow, but I do not think that would have saved this look. The flowers look more like fungi, and I wish the material they were made out of were matte, or colored/constructed to be more reminiscent of blooming flowers. The color story also is so separated and does not correlate well. It does give deterioration of garment, but if you are going to lean into that, go all the way. Rot and be rusted! Elsesser is such a gorgeous model with a beautiful body that really should be couture’d to, not blown out to crazy proportions by a poofy skirt. The shoes also just upset me… why are they green when you have this blueish tinted green in the bodice? It’s really disappointing, but it is on theme at least. Again… I REALLY hate to say this is one of my least favorite of the night.
Brie Larson in Prada and Fred Leighton
LOL, this one just made me laugh because of the sheer ridiculous nature of this. Wearing two dresses in one, neither or which have anything to do with the other. This geometric mesh overlay garment needs to be removed. It’s like Larson’s team had to choose between two dresses, could not come to a compromise then said, “let’s just do both!” The color story is absolutely awful, no congruency at all. The gold heel? No. Just no, all around. Probably my least favorite look of the night.
Karol G in Messika
Karol G looks absolutely gorgeous, but this dress is not it. It is so awkward to me, very boxy. These rhinestones are placed randomly on this gown. The translucent mesh is not working for this silhouette either. On a positive note, standing next to Brie Larson in the back, Karol G is taking it - still, two thumbs down.
Rita Ora in Marni
Rita Ora is wearing the 40-year-old beaded curtain on the backroom of the Jamaican market I frequent. Immediately when I saw this, I knew it was my least favorite look of the night. There are so many ways to make beaded strands into a sensible garment, but this is not one of them. A mesh body suit underneath that adds nothing to this look, but because this is literally a beaded curtain, it’s necessary. There could have been bead offshoots on the body or draping the body. No other ways to incorporate these beads but just draping them down the neck? Come on now… Ora, team and all designers involved could have done better. On the opposite end, Taika Waititi is eating Ora UP. This monochromatic leathery brown suit is everything. It is tailored to perfection. Pleated leather pants, well… YES! The rhinestone detail on the collar is such a nice addition, very handsome, smooth and sexy. Allowing your date to steal the show like this is a crime… tsk tsk.
The Ugly
*Side note: ‘Ugly’ does not have a good connotation, at all. I mean to use this section as more of a way to discuss things that are likened to the word ‘disheartening’ rather than ‘ugly’.
The Ugly lies solely in the discourse that is surrounding this event.
This year more than others the dichotomy of world situations happening at the time of this event became more evident. I felt the shaky opposition of being caught between the Met Gala news and the immense news of worldly disputes, seeing tweets of beautiful gowns followed by videos of deceased children harmed in Gaza. There were a multitude of tweets condemning the coverage of the Met Gala and the replies of Met Gala content were being filled with hashtags and calls for action. There were actual protests happening blocks away and outside the Met Gala for the Free Palestine movement. Political unrest bled into the media coverage of the Met Gala so much it is difficult to take a blind eye to it.
Revisiting the story ‘The Garden of Time’ which inspired the dress code, one of the major themes of the story is class disputes. Looking at it from a Marxist view, the story details the bourgeoisie (being the count and countess) versus the proletariats (the mob of angry workers) during times of longform distress. In a time where we are witnessing a growing recession, where the rich are increasingly getting richer and the middle class is lessening, the poor are growing more impoverished, it seems as though there may be something to say about this story being an inspiration for one of the highest status and exclusive events on the planet currently. The cost for an individual ticket this year was $75k, with a table costing as much as $350k - only if you are invited to attend.
Another theme of ‘The Garden of Time’ is environmental crisis. Growing demand in fashion leading to an increase in production that perpetuates fast clothing cycles is leading to environmental decimation for textiles. Alongside decimation of forests for fashion production and capital reasons (in the wise words of Joni Mitchell on Big Yellow Taxi, “they paved paradise and put up a parking lot”), this year’s dress code touches on many issues that it also directly contributes to and reflects.
Subsequently, many exclusive high-profile events happen at the simultaneously with these issues, yet the Met Gala has been largely criticized for this after the fact.
There were many moments to use the short story by Ballard and its themes to channel through fashion, raise awareness and celebrate art and its preservation, but this year like many years that fell flat with many of the patrons attending. That also arises the question: is being a celebrity political, and does that mean that these highly publicized people should be using platforms to highlight these issues? What is the true impact of them doing that and how do these events correlate with political issues?
Thank you for reading my 2024 Met Gala round-up. I enjoyed speaking on the looks from this years Met Gala as well as talking about the context of the event and events surrounding it.
As always, I appreciate you reading and please share with this anyone you feel would like to learn more about the Met Gala or would agree with what was shared.
Assembly dismissed, until next time!
‘The Garden of Time’ by JG Ballard is hyperlinked to this link: https://readerslibrary.org/wp-content/uploads/The-Garden-of-Time.pdf